How does one know for sure if the spine is correct and accurate on wood shafts?
All wood shaft manufacturer’s sell shafting that is what we call “Factory Spine”. They are unmarked and spined by a machine, never taking into consideration grain placement or straightness. Some of the smaller outfits may hand spine, but they still are unmarked. Usually, they are just sorted into bins, boxes, etc. each being of a separate grouping, i.e. 45-50, 50-55, 55-60, etc.

These “Factory Spine” shafts cannot always be trusted as accurate because there is just too much margin for error. The large automated machine spined shafts, like Port Orford Cedar, will vary 15-20#, even as much as 40# difference when hand spined against the grain and zeroed out for straightness. This is why many years ago we were always told to shoot our broadhead tipped arrows to eliminate “flyers”. Only the serious hard core Fletchers hand spine their shafts. This remains the situation, today.

There is only one way to assure one is receiving shafts of the actual spine requested. That is by purchasing from a Fletcher who hand spines and marks the actual spine on each shaft. Only, then can the majority of mistakes be eliminated. In addition, groupings like 45-50, 50-55, 55-60, etc are actually 6# spine groups, not the standard 5# as advertised. 45-49, 50-54, 55-59, etc. are true 5 # groups.

You also, need to be aware that most of the spine testers manufactured and in use today contain faulty spine scales. The formula 26 divided by deflection equals pounds of spine is, and has been the standard of this industry for decades. However, since one can trace most of today’s spine tester’s back to manufacture’s (yes, they are copies) from the 1940’s-1950’s; for some reason unknown to me and other seasoned Fletcher’s, the original manufacture’s used two formula’s to their measuring scale. The Standard Formula was used for spine weights up to about 65# and then another different formula for weights over 65#. Sometimes, there were 3 or more formula’s used. This resulted in no uniformity, what so ever.

The most accurate spine tester, but the most time consuming is one that uses a dial indicator with 1” of travel and measures in thousands. However, several other key things need to be precise in order to assure accurate readings. These are necessary regardless of the type tester used. The support post must be exactly 26” on center. The 2# weight must be precisely 2.000# and it suspended on the shaft in the middle of the 26” supports. Any deviations from, or of these measurements and weights will result in wrong or different readings.

That said, as long as the shafts being measured the same way on the same spine tester, the resulting readings can still be accurately grouped and will result in useable matched shafting. They just will vary from Fletcher to Fletcher. Therefore, it is best to talk to your Fletcher and ask what formula they use and if using spine tester’s other than dial indicator, if they have recalibrated it to the Standard Formula, 26 divided by deflection equals pounds of spine.

We use a Scheib Spine Tester made in the 1950’s that has both thousands of deflection and pounds of spine on its scale. We have checked its accuracy with a dial indicator. The thousands part of scale is accurate, but the pounds side was wrong. We recalibrated this part of the scale many years ago. Today’s Flite Rite Spine Tester is an exact copy of the Scheib.

Should I use right or left wing feathers? Right wing for left handed and left wing for right handed?
This is an old wives tale and it really makes no difference Just make sure one is using all the same wing on a particular arrow and that you have the correct wing for your helical fletcher.

Is bare shaft testing necessary to get good arrow flight?
No! In fact, it is this bowhunters opinion that it is extremely difficult to accurately interpret the results for the vast majority of stick bow archers. One must have impeccable form, consistent draw, near perfect release, etc. in order to begin to make judgments/changes. If ones draw varies as little as 1/4” from one shot to another, or your bow arm collapses, or your release varies the results will change. Furthermore, the target median must be so uniform as to not change the direction of the shaft when entering and the archer must be perpendicular in all directions to the target. Any slight deviation will produce erroneous results. Lastly, it is very time consuming, costly and can be very frustrating. I will leave you with one final thought. If bare shaft testing is so crucial to obtain perfect spine/flight, then why does one put feathers on?

What glue should I use for nocks and feathers?
First off, the same type of glue is used for both. However, the type depends upon what type of paint is used, or the type of shafting.
• Wood shafts using gasket lacquer – use Duco Cement.
• Wood shafts using Bohning Lacquer – must use Fletch-Tite or Fletch-Tape.
• Wood shafts using enamel, polyurethane’s, varethane’s and water based paints – use Duco Cement.
• Aluminum shafts – use Fletch-Tite or Fletch-Tape.
• Fiberglass shafts – use Bond-Tite, Fletch-Tite or Fletch-Tape.
• Carbon shafts – use Bond-Tite or Fletch-Tape. Glues like Super Glue can also be used.

What glue should I use for points?
Hot Melt! The kind that works in Hot Glue Guns. The amber colored is the best and strongest; the white clear colored also, works if one cannot find the amber.

How do I keep points from coming off in 3-D targets?
This can be difficult at times, especially today with the super tough 3-D targets constructed to stop high speed, skinny carbon shafts. Use the amber colored Hot Melt, which is more pliable. Ferr-L-Tite seems more brittle and not as strong. Also, make sure the oil coating, sometimes found on field points, is thoroughly cleaned/removed. Look at the OTHER GREAT TIPS PAGE for how we install points.

What spine or size shafting should I use?
The true way is to shoot your broadhead tipped arrows. Use of my spine charts will work, too. At the very least, it will get you very close. There are so many variables involved that there is no concrete answer. Look at the SETUP AND TUNING TIPS PAGE for further information of how we setup our bows.

What is my actual draw length?
Your actual draw length is the distance from the string groove in nock to the back of the bow (that part of bow farthest from shooter). This distance should be measured while the shooter is concentrating on shooting the arrow, not drawing the bow to see how far it can be drawn. Use of another person is necessary who then watches your draw while you use your natural form. Many will be surprised to find that their actual draw length is shorter than previously thought.

How long should my arrows be? What does B.O. P. mean?
B.O. P. stands for Back Of Point measurement. It is measured from the bottom of string groove in nock to the back of point.

Your arrows should be as close to your actual draw length as possible. Depending upon the type of bow and the broadhead one uses, generally 1/2” to 1” longer than actual draw length is all that is necessary. Remember, the total arrow length is needed to figure spine and the arrow flexes its entire length through paradox, so any excess arrow sticking out in front of bow (2” or more) is wasted.

What bow/bows do we shoot?
Currently, Rob shoots a 60”, 53# @ 27” Black Widow MA-2 recurve with a 452 Flemish twist string and cat whisker silencers. He also has a 64”, 53# @ 27” Juniper Mountain longbow made by Jerry Stout. He shoots three under and uses 28” BOP length woods, either Sitka Spruce or Lodgepole Pine (Chundoo), 65-69# spines, 3 fletched and tipped with Wensel Woodsman or 125 grain Snuffers.
He killed his first deer with a Heritage Archery TD recurve, 60”, 40# @ 26”, 4 fletched cedar arrow tipped with 3 blade Penetrator broadheads. Next, he used a 60”, 47# @ 27” Bruin Huntmaster TD recurve and 4 fletched cedar arrows tipped with “Baby” Snuffers. After that, he used a 58”, 57# @ 27” Martin Mamba recurve and a 64”, 51# @ 27” Assenheimer TD recurve with 3 fletched 2018 arrows tipped with 125 grain Snuffers.

For me, it is not so easy. Currently, I am shooting a 60” 50# @ 28” Thunderhorn Heart Stopper TD longbow with 452 Flemish string and wool puff silencers. I shoot split finger and use 29” BOP length woods, either Sitka Spruce or Chundoo(Lodgepole Pine), 3-5.5” banana fletched 65-69# spine tipped with 145 grain Snuffers or 165 grain Ace Express broadheads. I also have another Thunderhorn Heart Stopper TD longbow that is 60”, 57# @ 28” and I use the same arrows.
As far as recurves are concerned, I have a 62”, 51# @ 28” Bob Lee Thunderbolt, a 66”, 50# 2 28” Jack Howard Gamemaster Jet, a 64”, 50# @ 28” Assenheimer TD, and a 64”, 53# @ 28” Black Widow MA-3 that I shoot. I use the before mentioned woods, as well as 70-74# spine, plus Carbonwood 4000’s with 125 grain steel adapters and/or 2020 aluminum’s with glue on broadhead adapters. These are usually 60/120 (Look in the OTHER TIPS PAGE for further information about this 60/120 fletch) 4 fletched and tipped with either 145 grain Snuffers or 165 grain Ace Express broadheads.

I killed my first deer, back when, with a 62”, 42# Ben Pearson Cougar with 3 fletched cedar arrows tipped with Bear Razor heads. Over the ensuing years, I used the following bows. Groves Prestige Magnum w/overdraw, Staghorn Xp’s, Wilson Bros. Black Widow H-101, Wing Red Wing Hunter and Thunderbird, Jennings Model T compound ( Yep! But, only for a couple years in the 70’s), Loutham Tellem TD, Herter’s TD, Bear Kodiak Magnum TD, Assenheimer TD’s, Bighorn, Bruin, Jerry Pierce, Cascade Golden Hawk Magnum TD, Ohio Hunter, Jack Howard Gamemaster Jet’s, Bob Lee TD longbow, Bob Lee TD recurve, Bob Lee Stick longbow, Black Widow MA-2 and probably some others that have been forgotten. During this time I, mostly used cedar arrows with some aluminums and fiberglass along the way. In later years, I used Chundoo (Lodgepole Pine). They all have been tipped Snuffers since 1970. Most were 4 fletched. I started using 3 fletch shot cock feather in (Rob shoots this way, too) about 15 years ago. Look in the OTHER TIPS PAGE for further information why we shoot cock feather in. My all time favorite bows are the Jack Howard Gamemaster Jet and Assenheimer TD recurves. They have been the most accurate, smoothest shooting bows in my hands.

Truth be known, I love the simplicity and romance of a longbow, but can not shoot them as well as the above two recurves. I shoot the Thunderhorn Heart Stopper TD longbows the best of the many I have tried over the years. I am determined to take some game with these longbows. However, I must say that it takes much more practice on my part to remain confident with them. Whenever, my shooting falters a bit with the longbow, I can pick up either the Gamemaster jet or Assenheimer TD and my shooting improves, instantly. I really envy those who truly excel with a longbow.

We both prefer and use bow quivers while bowhunting, with our preference being, the strap-on or bolt-on Great Northern Adjustable 5 Arrow Quiver. Look in the OTHER TIPS PAGE for how we modify them.

What is your favorite animal to bowhunt?
Rob, having lived until just recently in Wisconsin, favors whitetails. However, he is excited about hunting elk and sheep here in Idaho. He has harvested Whitetail and Mule Deer in 18 years of bowhunting.

I love bowhunting whitetails, too but since moving to Idaho in 1994, I dearly miss these opportunities. However, my all time favorite animal is bears. I have successfully harvested bear in Wisconsin, Colorado, Wyoming and soon to be, Idaho plus unsuccessful attempts (Only in not harvesting for truly every bowhunt is successful to us, whether game is taken, or not.) in Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario and Michigan. Someday, I am going to bowhunt the Coastal areas of Alaska for Black Bear. My fantasy bowhunt would be for Grizzly, Kodiak, or Russian Brown Bear, but unless I win, the lottery these are only fantasies because of the high dollar cost involved and I prefer “Do It Yourself” bowhunting. I have harvested Whitetail, Mule Deer, Antelope, Elk, and Black Bear in 41 years of bowhunting.